Day three, my final day in Macau, turned out a little differently than I had originally planned, but also much better than it would have been otherwise. I made a trip to the A Ma Temple, from which Macau draws its name. The temple itself was not as impressive as I had expected. In fact, it reminded me of a putt-putt golf course more than anything else. Here I struck up a conversation with a nice German fellow who wanted me to snap a picture of him. While we were talking, we were joined by a group of English blokes who were glad to hear some other English speakers (as was I!). We got to talking for a long time and they finally invited me to spend the day with them. We had lunch and visited a few of the sites, including the Moorish Barracks, the Leal Senado (again... but they hadn't seen it yet), and a few of the casinos, which I hadn't been into at all. That evening we went to Pizza Hut of all places. As lame as it sounds, I was eager to have REAL pizza, and that Meat Lover's pizza with the stuffed crust was just what I needed!
After dinner we had to part, and I was feeling a little blue because I really liked these guys and was vaguely toying with the idea of delaying my departure so I could hang out with them some more. After being alone in freezing cold Shaoyang for weeks with all the other Westerners gone and only my Chinese friends Phenix and Summer to see only while helping them out, I was really missing some cultural companionship! But finally I decided it would probably be too much trouble and reluctantly decided to leave as planned.
I woke up at 5AM the next day. The border opens at 7AM, and I had to take a 45 minute cab ride to get to the airport to make my 9:05AM flight. I wasn't sure what to expect, and I was afraid if it took as long to get back into China as it took to leave I was going to be cutting it very close time wise. I was at the border by 6:30AM and had time to wait. There weren't many people there, so I positioned myself fairly close to the gate into the port authority building. But as 7AM approached, suddenly there were hundreds, if not over a thousand people surrounding me. At exactly 7AM on the dot, the guards opened the gate, and people were LITERALLY crawling under the gate when it was only inches off the ground. I found myself in the novel and exhilarating experience of running towards a border as part of a crowd carrying all my worldly possessions on my back and in my hands. I admit, I felt a little like a refugee in a movie.
I found I needn't have worried about timing. There were no foreigners crossing the border at this time, and the line designated for non-Chinese/Macanese/Hong Kong residents was empty. In going through BOTH the Macau and PRC immigration lines, I was done in 13 minutes. This was a pleasing contrast to the hour and a half it took upon my arrival. I made it to the airport in plenty of time and the trip home was relatively uneventful, aside from the now-typical "foreigner in China" travel headaches I have come to expect, and even those were minor.
Back to Shaoyang!
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Macau Trip III: Day Two
Day Two began with a hike up to the Guia Fortress and Lighthouse, which sit on the highest point in Macau. This wasn't too bad of a hike, since my hotel (The Hotel Guia) was literally right at the entrance to the park. From this old colonial stronghold, you can see the entire territory, from the harbor on one side and across the narrow waterway to the coastal hills of Guangdong Province, China on the other. From this old fort, the sight will bear witness to the unique blending of Asian, European, and international cultures as reflected in the buildings, ranging from graceful colonial mansions, rough-looking apartment towers that have seen better days, and up to the glittering glass and steel towers and spires of moder skyscrapers and the numerous casinos, hotels, and resorts.
Next, after descending the hill, I visited in quick succession several very beautiful Catholic churches and finally found my way to the Largo do Senado. The Largo was once the center of the Portuguese administration of Macau, home to the Senate of Macau. It is covered in alternating irregular stripes of black and white tile, and surrounded by many old, eye catching structures. This area appears to have become a very chic and hip shopping district, with many recognizable companies having stores in this area. Fortunately, the effect of this gentrification does not detract from the exciting atmosphere or the grace and beauty of the architecture. Here I visited the Leal Senado (The Loyal Senate). It received the "Loyal" title from the King of Portugal due to their continuing to fly the Portuguese flag during a period when Portugal was being dominated by Spain. There is an inscription quoting the King over the door leading to the stairway that takes you to the Senate chamber extolling the loyalty and devotion of the Senate. There wasn't much to see at the Senado, unfortunately; lots of blue and white tile, a few statues and inscriptions, a small garden and fountain, and an exhibit of Ming vases.
Following a quick stop at Saint Paul's again (You just can't avoid passing it. All roads seem to lead there!) followed by a little souvenir shopping and a look around at the casinos, I headed over to Macau Tower. The tower is over 1,100 feet tall and, unfortunately for my intermittent acrophobia, has windows in the floor of the observation deck. I admit, I had a brief spell of vertigo but I pulled myself together after a minute or two and had the pleasure/horror of watching several people bungee jumping from a platform just above the observation deck. I always have loved getting to see interesting cityscapes and skylines and looking out at the sea, and much to my delight, I could see all of these from the tower.
The evening consisted of a brief rest and a trip to try another Portuguese restaurant. This time I had an appetizer plate of various foods (All delicious... except I couldn't finish the fried sardines. I just have too much trouble eating something that still looks like the animal), stuffed crab (one of my favorite foods), and an orange pudding for desert, again with some Portuguese wine, it made for a delicious way to end a long day of being a tourist.
Next, after descending the hill, I visited in quick succession several very beautiful Catholic churches and finally found my way to the Largo do Senado. The Largo was once the center of the Portuguese administration of Macau, home to the Senate of Macau. It is covered in alternating irregular stripes of black and white tile, and surrounded by many old, eye catching structures. This area appears to have become a very chic and hip shopping district, with many recognizable companies having stores in this area. Fortunately, the effect of this gentrification does not detract from the exciting atmosphere or the grace and beauty of the architecture. Here I visited the Leal Senado (The Loyal Senate). It received the "Loyal" title from the King of Portugal due to their continuing to fly the Portuguese flag during a period when Portugal was being dominated by Spain. There is an inscription quoting the King over the door leading to the stairway that takes you to the Senate chamber extolling the loyalty and devotion of the Senate. There wasn't much to see at the Senado, unfortunately; lots of blue and white tile, a few statues and inscriptions, a small garden and fountain, and an exhibit of Ming vases.
Following a quick stop at Saint Paul's again (You just can't avoid passing it. All roads seem to lead there!) followed by a little souvenir shopping and a look around at the casinos, I headed over to Macau Tower. The tower is over 1,100 feet tall and, unfortunately for my intermittent acrophobia, has windows in the floor of the observation deck. I admit, I had a brief spell of vertigo but I pulled myself together after a minute or two and had the pleasure/horror of watching several people bungee jumping from a platform just above the observation deck. I always have loved getting to see interesting cityscapes and skylines and looking out at the sea, and much to my delight, I could see all of these from the tower.
The evening consisted of a brief rest and a trip to try another Portuguese restaurant. This time I had an appetizer plate of various foods (All delicious... except I couldn't finish the fried sardines. I just have too much trouble eating something that still looks like the animal), stuffed crab (one of my favorite foods), and an orange pudding for desert, again with some Portuguese wine, it made for a delicious way to end a long day of being a tourist.
Macau Trip II: Day One
So after the ordeal that was described in my last post, I finally reached my hotel in Macau. There, I promptly took a much-needed nap. I didn't even eat first, despite the fact I had just gone nearly 2 days without eating.
Once I was rested and felt better, I took my camera, my map and my guide book and struck out to explore glorious Macau.
As I said before, Macau was a Portuguese colony for over 400 years. In that time, they built up a remarkable and charming city that is a spectacular mix of Chinese and European culture, not to mention the dashes of African, Indian and Brazilian culture that came from the mother country's other imperial possessions. In other words: Just the kind of melting pot/ cultural crossroads city I love.
Macau is only 11.39 square miles and has a population of 544,600, giving it a population density of 48,092 people per square mile, which is the highest in the world. Incidentally, it also has the world's highest life expectancy, at 84.36 years. It is 95% Chinese and 2% Portuguese or Macanese (mixed Chinese/Portuguese) with the remainder belonging to other minority groups. It consists of the Macau peninsula, which has a small land border with Guangdong Province, and the islands of Taipa and Coloane, which are connected to Macau by bridges.
OK, geography lesson over. Since Macau is very small, you can pretty much walk anywhere on the peninsula you need to be in under an hour. My first find (since I wasn't really going anywhere in particular) was the Protestant Cemetery. This is an impressive little plot of land packed to overflowing with marble tombs, tombstones, vaults, and statues. I didn't get as much of a chance to look at as much as I would have liked since it was sunset and the cemetery was closing.
Next I wandered through the streets, the architecture lover in me having a field day looking at all the beautiful Baroque, Neoclassical and European Colonial-style buildings with their white columns, wrought iron, balconies, verandas, and ice cream-colored stucco walls glowing beautifully in the fading light of the day.
I tried to find the Largo do Senado (Senate Square) and though I failed at this task despite my map, I did stumble upon Saint Paul's Church, the most famous symbol of Macau. This old church was destroyed many years ago in a fire, and only the elaborately carved front wall remains standing. The area was swarming with people. As twilight fell, the strings of lights in the bushes and the exciting bustle while the saints and the Blessed Virgin smiled down upon everyone created an electric environment that I could almost physically feel. Yes, Macau really is my kind of town.
I ended my evening at a Portuguese restaurant I stumbled upon that I later discovered was just a few blocks from the Largo do Senado. I have always had an unaccountable affection for Portugal, though I've never travelled there, and I had always wanted to try Portuguese food, so this was finally my chance. I was a little surprised to note a vague similarity to the food I grew up on in South Carolina. Portuguese food, it seems, emphasizes rice and seafood, both Palmetto State staples. I had Portuguese roasted sausage, shrimp and octopus rice, and tarts for dessert and a glass of vinho. Quite enjoyable.
So ended Day One.
Once I was rested and felt better, I took my camera, my map and my guide book and struck out to explore glorious Macau.
As I said before, Macau was a Portuguese colony for over 400 years. In that time, they built up a remarkable and charming city that is a spectacular mix of Chinese and European culture, not to mention the dashes of African, Indian and Brazilian culture that came from the mother country's other imperial possessions. In other words: Just the kind of melting pot/ cultural crossroads city I love.
Macau is only 11.39 square miles and has a population of 544,600, giving it a population density of 48,092 people per square mile, which is the highest in the world. Incidentally, it also has the world's highest life expectancy, at 84.36 years. It is 95% Chinese and 2% Portuguese or Macanese (mixed Chinese/Portuguese) with the remainder belonging to other minority groups. It consists of the Macau peninsula, which has a small land border with Guangdong Province, and the islands of Taipa and Coloane, which are connected to Macau by bridges.
OK, geography lesson over. Since Macau is very small, you can pretty much walk anywhere on the peninsula you need to be in under an hour. My first find (since I wasn't really going anywhere in particular) was the Protestant Cemetery. This is an impressive little plot of land packed to overflowing with marble tombs, tombstones, vaults, and statues. I didn't get as much of a chance to look at as much as I would have liked since it was sunset and the cemetery was closing.
Next I wandered through the streets, the architecture lover in me having a field day looking at all the beautiful Baroque, Neoclassical and European Colonial-style buildings with their white columns, wrought iron, balconies, verandas, and ice cream-colored stucco walls glowing beautifully in the fading light of the day.
I tried to find the Largo do Senado (Senate Square) and though I failed at this task despite my map, I did stumble upon Saint Paul's Church, the most famous symbol of Macau. This old church was destroyed many years ago in a fire, and only the elaborately carved front wall remains standing. The area was swarming with people. As twilight fell, the strings of lights in the bushes and the exciting bustle while the saints and the Blessed Virgin smiled down upon everyone created an electric environment that I could almost physically feel. Yes, Macau really is my kind of town.
I ended my evening at a Portuguese restaurant I stumbled upon that I later discovered was just a few blocks from the Largo do Senado. I have always had an unaccountable affection for Portugal, though I've never travelled there, and I had always wanted to try Portuguese food, so this was finally my chance. I was a little surprised to note a vague similarity to the food I grew up on in South Carolina. Portuguese food, it seems, emphasizes rice and seafood, both Palmetto State staples. I had Portuguese roasted sausage, shrimp and octopus rice, and tarts for dessert and a glass of vinho. Quite enjoyable.
So ended Day One.
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