Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Macau Trip II: Day One

So after the ordeal that was described in my last post, I finally reached my hotel in Macau. There, I promptly took a much-needed nap. I didn't even eat first, despite the fact I had just gone nearly 2 days without eating.

Once I was rested and felt better, I took my camera, my map and my guide book and struck out to explore glorious Macau.

As I said before, Macau was a Portuguese colony for over 400 years. In that time, they built up a remarkable and charming city that is a spectacular mix of Chinese and European culture, not to mention the dashes of African, Indian and Brazilian culture that came from the mother country's other imperial possessions. In other words: Just the kind of melting pot/ cultural crossroads city I love.

Macau is only 11.39 square miles and has a population of 544,600, giving it a population density of 48,092 people per square mile, which is the highest in the world. Incidentally, it also has the world's highest life expectancy, at 84.36 years. It is 95% Chinese and 2% Portuguese or Macanese (mixed Chinese/Portuguese) with the remainder belonging to other minority groups. It consists of the Macau peninsula, which has a small land border with Guangdong Province, and the islands of Taipa and Coloane, which are connected to Macau by bridges.

OK, geography lesson over. Since Macau is very small, you can pretty much walk anywhere on the peninsula you need to be in under an hour. My first find (since I wasn't really going anywhere in particular) was the Protestant Cemetery. This is an impressive little plot of land packed to overflowing with marble tombs, tombstones, vaults, and statues. I didn't get as much of a chance to look at as much as I would have liked since it was sunset and the cemetery was closing.

Next I wandered through the streets, the architecture lover in me having a field day looking at all the beautiful Baroque, Neoclassical and European Colonial-style buildings with their white columns, wrought iron, balconies, verandas, and ice cream-colored stucco walls glowing beautifully in the fading light of the day.

I tried to find the Largo do Senado (Senate Square) and though I failed at this task despite my map, I did stumble upon Saint Paul's Church, the most famous symbol of Macau. This old church was destroyed many years ago in a fire, and only the elaborately carved front wall remains standing. The area was swarming with people. As twilight fell, the strings of lights in the bushes and the exciting bustle while the saints and the Blessed Virgin smiled down upon everyone created an electric environment that I could almost physically feel. Yes, Macau really is my kind of town.

I ended my evening at a Portuguese restaurant I stumbled upon that I later discovered was just a few blocks from the Largo do Senado. I have always had an unaccountable affection for Portugal, though I've never travelled there, and I had always wanted to try Portuguese food, so this was finally my chance. I was a little surprised to note a vague similarity to the food I grew up on in South Carolina. Portuguese food, it seems, emphasizes rice and seafood, both Palmetto State staples. I had Portuguese roasted sausage, shrimp and octopus rice, and tarts for dessert and a glass of vinho. Quite enjoyable.

So ended Day One.

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